Tag Archives: raglan


Sometimes a single pattern just won’t do.  In this case, I loved the casual ease of the hoodie that I made last year for my niece and nephew. It looks great in the vibrant Cascade Superwash Paints, and both sweaters have gotten a lot of wear.  I wanted to make one for my son in the gorgeous blue colourway I spotted on my last trip to the LYS.  Unfortunately, it was a class pattern from my LYS, without much in the way of sizing variation.

My first two (size 18-24 month) raglan hoodies in two different colourways

My first two (size 18-24 month) raglan hoodies in two different colourways

I could have sat down and done the math to size this pattern up, but to be honest, sizing and fit are my weaknesses.  I’m really picky about how sweaters fit, but I cannot often muster the patience to rewrite every line of a pattern to fit the exact proportions of the recipient. In fact, it’s the reason I rarely make sweaters for myself. To make matters worse the original pattern just recommended different needle sizes and gauges for different sweater sizes.

Fortunately, I already had this Knitting Pure & Simple henley pattern.   When I made the size 2 henley over a year ago, I was really impressed with the proportions, which were perfect for my slim little guy.  All of their kid’s patterns contain detailed instructions for sizes from toddler to preteen. I love this pattern but I find it a little fussy for everyday preschool wear (especially since my son’s favourite outfits consist of t-shirts and sweatpants).

My son in my first Knitting Pure and Simple top down henley

An old photo of my son in my first Knitting Pure and Simple top down henley

The solution was clear: fraken-pattern!  I used the sizing, gauge and stitch counts from the henley (this time in size 4), and the trims and details from the hoodie, with a few of my own touches added in there too.

Fraken-hoodie in progress, in Cascade Superwash Paints

Fraken-hoodie in progress, in Cascade Superwash Paints


  1. The cuffs. The henley pattern called for ribbed sleeve and waist cuffs, knit on smaller needles. Instead I didn’t change needles and replaced the cuffs with a seed stitch border that sits flat, giving the sweater a more casual silhouette.
  2. The neckline. I have never ever closed the neckline on a henley sweater or t-shirt, so I used the open neck with a 3 stitch wide seed stitch border from the hoodie pattern.  At the end, I’ll add a little i-chord and a single button, so that the neck can, on rare occasions, be pulled in tight against the wind.
  3. My fraken-hoodie in progress - you can see the faux seam (in garter stitch) in the centre

    You can see the faux seam (in garter stitch) in the centre, above the green stitch marker

    The faux seams.  In Ann Budd’s excellent Top-Down Sweaters, she suggests adding a faux seam in top-down sweaters from the underarm to the waist.  They can be accomplished by purling or slipping a stitch under the arm, every second row.  This is my favourite knitting tip ever, it’s so easy and all seamless sweaters hang so much better with this little modification.

  4. The hood.  The henley pattern calls for a ribbed collar; here I will just substitute in the hood instructions from the other pattern.

In a few days, we leave to visit my in-laws and soak up the sun in Florida, but I hope to finish this sweater first.  Maybe I’ll be able to snap a few photos of the finished product on my little guy. I think it’ll be perfect to keep him cozy on the plane…


Top Down or Bottom Up?

My son in a bottom up (Ryuu-ki in Berroco Vintage) sweater and me in a top down (Lapis Yoke in Malabrigo) sweater

The first sweater I ever knit was a basic, seamless, top-down raglan cardigan. The pattern came from a beginner sweater class, and it has shaped my approach to knitting sweaters forever. I have no facility for sewing, and am admittedly a little short on patience, when it comes to finishing. There is nothing like seeing a sweater literally materialize in one piece on your needles.

Baby and toddler sweaters are among my favourite projects.  They’re quick and satisfying and small children can rock looks that would look silly on an adult. The sizing and gauge is also less of a concern; generally I make sweaters a size too big for small children, knowing they will always grow into it.  Fortunately, with a young son and 14 nieces and nephews, I have had lots of opportunities to knit itty bitty sweaters. I’ve experimented with a variety of patterns and approaches, and it’s all led me to one decided conclusion: top down all the way.

Bottom-up (or frustrating for the fingers)

I’ve knit some really lovely bottom-up sweaters. Notably Daniela Nii’s fair-isle dragon sweater (available for free) and Nikki Van De Caar’s maile baby cardigan (available on her blog What to Knit When You’re Expecting).  In both cases, I’m pretty happy with the results, but they haven’t become staples in my repertoire.  While the fair isle dragons and lacy leaves are lovely, the sweaters themselves were frustrating to knit.

The fair isle dragons on my son’s Ryuu-ko sweater (in Berroco Vintage)

For the uninitiated, bottom up sweaters are constructed from waist up; usually in three knit in the round pieces (abdomen and sleeves).  At that point, the three pieces have to be joined on a single circular needle and knit up in decreasing rows. Getting your fingers and needles around the armpits is torturous for me, and I’ve ruined more than a few hours of catching up on Homeland and Downton Abbey, complaining about this to my husband.

The other concern I’ve run into with bottom sweaters is the neckline.  My son (like many very young kids) has a big head, and top up sweaters have a cast-off edge at the neck, making them too tight to fit over his head. This can, of course, be fixed with a stretchy sock-style cast-off, but it gives the neckline a sloppy, slouchy look that makes me crazy.  In future, when I fall in love with a pattern or texture, I will be adapting patterns like these for top down construction.

Top-down (or the BEST way to make a sweater)

My son (at 10 months) in a Knitting Pure and Simple top down henley in Malabrigo yarn

I’m a complete devotee to top-down construction.  Early on, I used a lot of Diane Soucy’s fantastic Knitting Pure and Simple patterns.  The bulky neck down jacket, ballet cardigan and pullover henley were big favourites in my extended family.  I’ve made six of the jacket (!) for my son and all of his cousins under four.  It’s really fast, easy and practical.  The original three were made out of Dream in Colour and are beautiful, but even at Boxing Day Sale prices, they were expensive gifts.  The following three are Berroco.  They aren’t quite as pretty, but were a third of the cost and have washed quite a bit better.

My son’s bulky (raglan) jacket in Dream in Color yarn

Raglan construction seems to be the most common (the Pure and Simple patterns are mostly raglan).  It involves increasing along four raglan “seams” on either side of the shoulders.  It’s an extremely easy technique to learn, and easy to modify too. The hoodies below are the same pattern, and the decorative raglan was accomplished by putting a purl stitch in between the increase stitches.

Two raglan hoodies in Cascade Superwash Paints. The pink was modified with a purl stitch between raglan increases and a seed rather than garter stitch border

Yoke construction is often used to create colour work across the chest and shoulders.  Yokes are accomplished by increasing at intervals all around the chest, to create a poncho type top to the chest and shoulders.  I’ve only made one yoke sweater (Hannah Fettig’s Lapis Yoke), and it’s definitely flattering in a formfitting sweater like this one (although it’s a bit short everywhere, as you can see in the picture above).

I’ll be tackling set-in shoulders using Budd’s The Knitter’s Handy Book of Top Down Sweaters, after I finish my holiday knitting, and I’ll keep you posted.